Are you moisturizing your skin well enough to keep it hydrated?

Yes, you read it right. Moisturization and hydration are two very different phenomena but are interdependent in the skin world and both are needed to give you the soft, smooth, supple, and plumpy look.

Hydration involves binding to water and absorbing it. While moisturization involves sealing the absorbed water and forming a barrier on the skin further preventing the escape of the absorbed water ( Transepidermal water loss-TEWL). The skin has the natural ability to be moisturized and hydrated under optimal conditions via various biochemical processes occurring in the layers of the skin. Genetics, underlying medical conditions, and external factors such as environments, lifestyle habits influence the hydration and moisturization processes occurring in the skin. A severely dehydrated skin manifests into dry and flaky skin.

How to identify if your skin needs hydration or moisturization ( a.k.a skin is dehydrated or dry)

Dehydrated skin looks dull and feels tight. Unmoisturized skin appears dry, flaky and in severe cases inflamed. The skin has the inherent ability to naturally keep itself hydrated and moisturized, But when the natural process does not work optimally, hydration and moisturization issues can be addressed by using the right products that have the right ingredients.

Test to determine the hydration and moisturization levels

Corneocytes are actually dead cells. These dead cells are sloughed off in an orderly fashion from the skin (desquamation) naturally in a time cycle of 28 to 45 days ( skin cell turnover) and new cells ( keratinocytes) are formed in the deeper layers of the skin.  The keratinocytes mature and migrate to the top layers of skin and become dead cells ( corneocytes). The keratinocytes have histidine-rich protein that is similar to filaggrin protein. This protein is converted to NMF later in the process of maturation to corneocytes. Though corneocytes are dead cells they are important for the skin to maintain its hydration and be moisturized. Exposing the skin to harsh environmental conditions, unhealthy lifestyle habits such as smoking and improper skincare like too much exfoliation or using wrong or too many products might force these cells to be removed too early causing NMF levels to be lowered or depleted leading to mild to severe skin conditions such as dry skin, Psoriasis, etc.

How can you keep your skin well hydrated and moisturized

Genetics, underlying medical conditions along lifestyle and environmental factors play a role in the skin’s natural hydration and moisturization process. While genetics cannot be altered the dry skin condition resulting from it can be addressed by incorporating a few changes in your daily routine. Regular exercise and healthy nutrition have undoubtedly had an impact on maintaining optimal skin health. Besides that, adhering to good skincare practices like diligent cleansing of the face and applying products within 30 sec to a minute of cleansing, using high-quality products that are multifunctional targeting all the aspects of skin health, adapting to a healthy lifestyle like ( mild cleanser and avoiding using soaps) exercising for at least 30 minutes, eating a healthy diet that has more of natural foods and less processed foods, drinking adequate fluids on a daily basis ( women-2.7L, men-3.7L), minimizing exposure to the sun, harmful chemicals, extreme temperatures, keeping right humidity levels in the immediate surroundings can all help your skin to maintain natural hydration and moisturization.

Using products that are specific for hydration and moisturization will also help in keeping your skin hydrated and moisturized when the natural processes are functioning the way they have to be. Humectants help with hydration and occlusives help with moisturization. Emollients can be used in extremely dry skin conditions where the skin is itchy, inflamed, and is flaky. The table below gives examples of the ingredients to look for in products .

References:

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10. Harding CR et al. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000; 22(1):21-52.
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13. Kraft, J. & Lynde, C. (2005). ‘Moisturizers: What they are and a practical approach to product selection’, Skin Therapy letter, 10(5).