Albizzia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Albizzia julibrissin also known as pink silk tree, mimosa, persian silk tree, silk tree is a native of Asia. It is predominantly grown in Korea, China, India, and other Asian regions and is used as a part of local traditional medicine in treating several ailments such as insomnia, melancholia, diuresis, asthenia, ascariasis, depression, anxiety, etc. Studies have shown that has, cytotoxic antitumor, antioxidants, anti-infertility, and immunomodulatory activities as well. All these attributes make it a potential candidate to be used in the pharmaceutical industry. Recent studies have shown its efficacy as an effective anti-aging agent. 1,2

A research study using Albizzia julibrissin formulations has shown that these formulations help in the recovery and healing of fatigued skin. It helps in smoothening the wrinkles, softening the skin, boosting collagen, and enhancing the look of the skin. The dark circles formed under the eye due to the fatigue appeared less faded and the skin in the eye contour area looked bright with fewer wrinkles. It does this by acting against skin glycation and facilitating the skin detoxification. 3,4,5

References:
1. Fruit Pod Extracts as a Source of Nutraceuticals and Pharmaceuticals. Molecules. 2012;17:11931–11946.
2. Comparison of Two Commercial Type 1 Porcine Reproductive and Respiratory Syndrome Virus (PRRSV) Modified Live Vaccines against Heterologous Type 1 and Type 2 PRRSV Challenge in Growing Pigs. Clin. Vaccine Immunol. 2015;22:631–640.
3. New cosmetic use of an albizia julibrissin extract and corresponding topical composition.EP2760429B1.
4. Cosmetic use of an albizia julibrissin extract and corresponding topical composition. US9737476B2.US9
5. Cytotoxic Glycosides from Albizia julibrissin. J. Nat. Prod. 1997;60:102–107.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a plant derivative that is known to be a functional analog of Retinol except that it is much gentler and safer to skin giving comparable results to a retinol on photoaged skin. It is extracted from the plant, Psoralea corylifolia. Literature suggests that other plant species can also be a source of bakuchiol too. ¹

Psoralea corylifolia itself has been used in traditional Indian and Chinese medicine to treat skin ailments, alopecia, inflammation, leukoderma, leprosy, psoriasis, and eczema, as a healing agent of kidney, spleen, and many more. Psoralea corylifolia has many bioactive compounds which confer medicinal properties to it. Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds of the plant. Bakuchiol itself is known to be antibacterial, antifungal, anti-acne, anti-aging, anti-oxidant, anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, as a treatment for postmenopausal symptoms, as an estrogen agonist, etc.^1,2,3,4,5

Bakuchiol is called as bio retinol and has demonstrated its efficacy as an anti-aging agent comparable to retinol. A clinical study done to compare the efficacy of Bakuchiol and Retinol showed that both Bakuchiol and Retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the compounds. The retinol users reported more facial skin scaling and stinging . The study demonstrated that Bakuchiol is comparable to Retinol in its ability to improve the skin texture damaged due to photoaging and is better tolerated than retinol. ^6,7,8

Another study group reported that Bakuchiol leads to the expression of the same set of genes as Retinol. Genes involved in the synthesis of collagen I and III were unregulated and synthesis of collagen IV was stimulated as well. Their results showed that, after 12 weeks of treatment, significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness, an overall reduction in photo-damage was observed, without usual retinol therapy-associated undesirable effects.⁹

Figure1: Percentage of stimulation of collagen 1, II, III in skin cells treated with Bakuchiol and Retinol. Bakuchiol stimulates the production of more collagen.

Figure 2: Comparison of the effect of Bakuchiol and Retinol treatment. women of age groups 30 – 50 plus years old were subjected to the clinical study. The skin was treated for 28 days with Retinol ( shown as R in the figure) and Bakuchiol ( shown as R in the figure) and the wrinkle reduction was observed using NatiV 3 Analyzer.

All the research done points out that Bakuchiol is promising as a more tolerable alternative to retinol.

References:

1. Psoralea corylifolia L: Ethnobotanical, biological, and chemical aspects: A Phytotherapy Research. 2018;32:597–615.
2. Bakuchiol suppresses inflammatory response via Dow regulation of P38 MAPK/ERK signaling pathway. Int J Mol Sci, 2019, 20.
3. Phytoestrogen Bakuchiol Exhibits In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-breast Cancer Effects by Inducing S Phase Arrest and Apoptosis. Front Pharmacol. 2016 May 24;7:128.
4. Assessment of Antifungal Activity of Bakuchiol on Oral-Associated Candida spp.Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2015;2015.
5. Bakuchiol Alleviates Hyperglycemia-Induced Diabetic Cardiomyopathy by Reducing Myocardial Oxidative Stress via Activating the SIRT1/Nrf2 Signaling Pathway. Oxid Med Cell. 2020 Sep 30;2020.
6. Design and Engineering of “Green” Nanoemulsions for Enhanced Topical Delivery of Bakuchiol Achieved in a Sustainable Manner: A Novel Eco-Friendly Approach to Int J Mol Sci,2021, 22,10091.
7. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial British Journal of Dermatology (2019) 180, pp 289–296.
8. Bakuchiol may be another natural solution to reverse the course of nature. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):253-254.
9. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30.

Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract

Beet root has been known for its medicinal properties since the 10th century. Its extract is known to purify blood, help in blood circulation, decrease blood pressure, increase NO levels in the body which results in increased athletic performance, antibacterial, anti inflammatory, antioxidant, anti diabetic, improves renal and cardiovascular health and so on. ¹ In the personal care industry it is used as a colorant and is also known to increase the moisturization levels when applied to skin and hair. It is known for improving skin complexion due to its ability to fight inflammation, free radicals, and increase circulation. ^2,3 It is combined with several other ingredients to make formulations to improve skin health. ^4,5 Recent studies have shown that beet root extract has an instant as well as long term hydration and moisturization effect on the skin.^2,3 It has been speculated that beet root extract might accomplish this via vitamin D pathway.

A research group in Germany did some in vitro and invivo studies using a complex of beetroot extract and fructooligosaccharides ( FBC complex) and concluded that there is an increase in the hydration of the skin cells via vitamin D receptor. ⁷ Vitamin D receptor is what vitamin D binds to elicit its biological effect. Vitamin D receptor is needed for epidermal differentiation which has a downstream effect of making skins own natural moisturizing factors (NMF). ^8, Vitamin D receptor levels are also increased by vitamin D levels. Hence with age or in a scenario of low vitamin D levels in the body, the skin hydration is effected.

Their studies have shown that when skin cells were incubated with FBC an increase in the production of VDR was seen. As a control the cells were treated with Seocalcitol which is an inhibitor of VDR in order to see the true effect of FBC

Figure 1: Increase in VDR production in cells incubated with FBC. ⁷

Figure 2: Increase in skin hydration after one application of the FBC to normal skin. ⁷

Figure 3: Increase in skin hydration after 1 application of FCB to dry skin. ⁷

Figure 4: Increase in smoothness of skin after one application. ⁷

References:

1. The Potential Benefits of Red Beetroot Supplementation in Health and Nutrients 2015, 7, 2801-2822.
2. Recovery Effects of Oral Administration of Glucosylceramide and Beet Extract on Skin Barrier Destruction by UVB in Hairless Nutrients 2017, Oct 27; 9(11): 1178.
3. Oral Intake of Beet Extract Provides Protection Against Skin Barrier Impairment in Hairless Phytother Res 2013 May;27(5):775-83.
4. Plant derived cosmetic composition and method of treatment of US005547997A.
5. Cosmetic composition for improvement of skin function comprising natural KR101736714B1.
6. Vitamin D and its role in psoriasis: An overview of the dermatologist and nutritionist,” Reviews in Endocrine and Metabolic Disorders, 18, no. 2, pp. 195–205, 2017.
7. Analyzing Vitamin D and skin hydration. Personal care global, August 2020, Skincare, Pg 20-27.
8. Assessing the Relationship between Vitamin D3 and Stratum Corneum Hydration for the Treatment of Xerotic Nutrients 2012, 4, 1213-1218.
9. Characterization of Betabel Extract (Beta vulgaris) Encapsulated with Maltodextrin and Molecules 2020, 25, 5498.

Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil

Calophyllum inophyllum is also known as Alexandrian laurel, Balltree, Beach touriga, Borneo-mahogany, Indian doomba oil tree, Indian-laurel, Laurelwood, Red poon, Tatin touriga, and Tacamahac-tree has a wide variety of applications in Polynesian cultures. The oil is extracted from the fruit kernels, as well as poultices made from leaves and flowers, are commonly used for traditional medicine. The chemicals responsible for medicinal properties are callophylloloid and inophyllum in addition to the other complex polyphenols. They have proven benefits to health, such as anticancer, anti-HIV, antiviral, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antineoplastic, antiplatelet, antipsychotics, antioxidant, antiaging, antileukemic, antimalarial, anticoagulant, antifeedant, analgesic, photoprotective, molluscicidal, and piscicidal agents. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, photoprotective and wound healing properties.

Most of the bioactive properties of tamanu oil are attributed to oil composition including the presence of resinous compounds in tamanu oil beside common fatty acids ( alpha linoleic acid, palmatic acid, stearic acid), which constitutes a unique characteristic of this healing oil. This oil is especially recommended for the cure of all kinds of dermal issues (burns, dermatoses, eczema, acne, psoriasis, chilblains, skin cracks, diabetic sores, hemorrhoids, dry skin, etc.). Due to its calming and relieving pain effects, the oil is used in massages, for rheumatisms and sciatica soothing, and also highly appreciated for wound healing and analgesic properties as well.

Some of the benefits include- it acts as antioxidant, provides sunprotection, helps in healing wounds adn broken skin, antibacterial, antifungal, reduces scarring, eases minor burns and sun burns. Since the oil is made from nuts, people allergic to treenuts might feel sensitive to this oil.
In such suitcases it is recommended to do a patch test before using the oil directly on the skin. Otherwise this oil makes an excellent addition to your daily care routine.

References

1. Tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) – the African, Asian, Polynesian and Pacific Panacea. Dweck, A.C.; Meadows, T, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2000, 24 (6): 341–348.
2. David Febrilliant Susanto etal. Calophyllum inophyllum: Beneficial Phytochemicals, Their Uses, and Identification. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.86991
3. Phila Raharivelomanana etal. Tamanu oil and skin active properties: from traditional to modern cosmetic uses. OCLVolume 25,no:5, September 2018.
4. Ansel JL etal. Biological activity of Polynesian Calophyllum inophyllum oil extract on human skin cells. Planta Medica 82(11–12): 961–966.
5. Yimdjo MC et al. Antimicrobial and cytotoxic agents from Calophyllum inophyllum. Phytochemistry 2004; 65(20):2789–2795.
6. Saravanan R et al. Antimicrobial activity of various extracts from various parts of Calophyllum inophyllum L. J Appl Pharma Sciences 2011; 1:1,2.
7. Bhalla TN et al. Calophyllolide—a new non- steroidal anti-inflammatory agent. Indian J Med Res 1980; 72:762–765.
8. What Can Tamanu Butter Do For You? – Plant Guru (theplantguru.com).
9. Tamanu Oil: Benefits, Risks, and How to Use It (webmd.com).
10. Cytoprotective effect against UV-induced DNA damage and oxidative stress: role of new biological UV filter Eur J Pharm Sci, 2007; Mar;30(3-4):203-10
11. Anticancer Activity and Molecular Mechanism of Polyphenol Rich Calophyllum inophyllum Fruit Extract in MCF-7 Breast Cancer Cells. Nutr Cancer Nov-Dec 2017; 69(8):1308-1324.
12. Ansel JL et al. Biological activity of Polynesian Calophyllum inophyllum oil extract on human skin cells. Planta Medica, 2016, 82(11–12): 961–966.
13. Spino C et al. Anti-HIV coumarins from Calophyllum seed oil. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 1998 Dec 15;8(24):3475-8.
14. The Wound Healing and Antibacterial Activity of Five Ethnomedical Calophyllum inophyllum Oils: An Alternative Therapeutic Strategy to Treat Infected Wounds. PLOS ONE | DOI:10.1371/journal.pone.0138602 September 25, 201.
15. Frontiers in Pharmacology: “The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care.” NHS: “Contact dermatitis – diagnosis.”
16. OCL: “Tamanu oil and skin active properties: from traditional to modern cosmetic uses.”

Cetearyl alcohol

(Monaesi skincare uses only natural plant derived cetearyl alcohol)

Cetearyl alcohol (C₃₄H₇₂O₂), also referred to as cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, is a mixture of fatty alcohols, primarily cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is made from natural plants ( coconut, palm, soy, etc) and animal sources, from petroleum-based sources, or can be synthesized chemically. Cetearyl alcohol is different from cetyl alcohol though they both belong to the same class of fatty alcohols. Cetearyl alcohol is different from ethanol, methanol and other drying alcohol which are harsh on the skin. FDA has approved it to be safe non-drying alcohol to be used in alcohol-free products. Besides its usage in the cosmetic industry, it is also used in food industry as a part of food additives, in textile industry in making synthetic fibers, in chemical industries making textile soaps, in the pharmaceutical industry as an excipient, emulsifying and stiffening agent. Technical grade Cetearyl alcohol contains approximately 65% to 80% stearyl and 20% to 35% cetyl alcohols. ^1,2,4,5

Cetearyl alcohol is widely used in making skin lotions and creams,hair styling products , lipsticks etc and serves as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity control agent, coupling agents, and foam booster and stabilizers, surfactant. It is also used as a lubricant in certain products. ^2,3,6

Safety and toxicity studies with reference to cetearyl alcohol were done by CFR and their studies have concluded that cetearyl alcohol is a safe ingredient to be used at the concentrations recommended and set.⁷

While the primary function of cetearyl alcohol in any formula is to act as an emulsifier stabilizer, it also contributes to the sensorial features such as a iding in the easy spreading of the formula, delivering a smooth, velvety, and hydrated feel due to its structure. Its crystalline lamellar structure has a water binding portion which facilitates to hold water molecules within its structure which contributes to the moisturization and smooth to touch sensorial factors.

References:

1. Synthetic fatty Washington, DC: U.S. Government Printing Office. CFR. (Revised April 1, 1984). Title 21 Part 172.864.
2. Handbook of Cosmetic Material New York: p. 28.1954.
3. Current developments in excipients science. Basic Fundamentals of Drug Delivery, Advances in Pharmaceutical research and Development, 2019, pg 29-83.
4. Encyclopedia of Shampoo Ingredients. Cranford, NJ: Micelle 1983.
5. Indirect food additives: Adhesives and components of coatings. Washington, DC: U.S. Government Printing CFR). (Revised as of April 1, 1984). Title 21 Part 175.105.
6. Higher alcohols in skin lotions. Cosmet. Perfume. 89, 39-42.
7. Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol.Journal of America’s college of Toxicology, Vol 7, no: 3.

Fucus vesiculosus extract

Fucus vesiculosus, commonly known as bladder wrack, is a species of brown algae growing in cold-temperate waters, largely distributed around the North Atlantic shores. Fucus vesiculosus is rich in bioactive compounds, including fucoidan, fucoxanthin, phlorotannins, and several vitamins, all presenting a broad spectrum of bioactivities with great potential for application in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Studies provide evidence of the antioxidant, anti-tumor, and anti-inflammatory activities of Fucus vesiculosus extract. 1,2

In the cosmetic and personal care industry, Fucus vesiculosus extract is gaining popularity to be used as an effective treatment for dark circles, to reduce eye bags, boost collagen, as an antioxidant agent, and as an anti-inflammatory agent. One of the common reasons for the formation of dark circles is the leakage of blood vessels due to internal stress ( eg, lack of enough sleep) which results in the accumulation of heme outside the blood vessel giving the dark shade. Fucus vesiculosus extract reduces the look of dark circles by participating in the heme pathway in the skin. It promotes the degradation of toxic heme that is leaked out to its protective catabolites and reduces the source of dark circles. Fucus extract does this by stimulating the activity of the HO-1 enzyme ( heme oxygenase) at both gene and protein levels. By stimulating this enzyme, it promotes the degradation of toxic heme In addition, Fucus extract showed good anti-inflammatory efficacy. The strong antioxidation property of Fucus extract can reduce eye bags and wrinkles while its collagen-boosting activity will potentially reduce fine lines and wrinkles. 3,4,5

Figure 1: measurement of mRNA ( messenger RNA) expression of HO-1 enzyme. mRNA leads to the synthesis of the enzyme,e. The higher the level of mRNA higher the amount of enzyme synthesized downstream. As seen in the figure there is a dose-dependent increase in the amount of ho-1 mRNA. The higher the amount of Fucus extracts being used in the in-vitro experiment using keratinocytes, the higher the level of mRNA formed.

In addition, Fucus extract showed good anti-inflammatory efficacy. The strong antioxidation property of Fucus extract can reduce eye bags and wrinkles while its collagen-boosting activity will potentially reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Figure 2: There is a dose-dependent increase in the synthesis of collagen. As the concentration of the Fucus extract in the in-vitro experiment using keratinocytes was increased there is an increase in the amount of collagen 1 synthesized. Vitamin C was used as a control and for comparison of the activity of Fucus extract.

Figure 3: A dose-dependent increase in the antioxidant activity was seen in the in-vitro experiment using keratinocytes. As the dose of Fucus extract was increased an increase in the antioxidant activity was seen. Trolox was used as a control and for comparison of the antioxidant activity. Trolox is an antioxidant like Vitamin E.

References:

1. GBIF GBIF Backbone Taxonomy-Fucus vesiculosus L. Available online: https://doi.org/10.15468/ dl.r83ttf (accessed on 21 January 2020).
2. Phytochemical Constituents and Biological Activities of Fucus Mar. Drugs 2018, 16, 249.
3. Treatment of human skin with an extract of Fucus vesiculosus changes its thickness and mechanical properties. J Cosmet Sci, Jan-Feb 2002;53(1):1-9.
4. Fucus extract: cosmetic treatment for under-eye dark circles J Cosmet Sci, Mar-Apr 2014;65(2):103-13.
5. Antioxidant capacities of phlorotannins extracted from the brown algae Fucus vesiculosus. J Agric Food Chem 2012 Jun 13;60(23):5874-83.

Glyceryl stearate citrate ( C₂₇H₄₈O₁₀ )

( Monaesi skincare uses plant derived Glyceryl stearate citric acid)

Glyceryl stearate citrate is a fatty acid formed either by chemical or enzymatic reaction of glycerine, stearic acid and citric acid. It contains 1-mono-glyceride (10% to 30%) and free glycerol (maximum 3%). Each of these components are obtained from natural sources which can be plants and animals.

Sources of glycerin can include animal and plant derived fats. Manufacturers can also synthetically produce glycerin. For vegetable glycerin, common sources include triglyceride-rich vegetable fats, such as coconut, soy, palm oil, etc. Likewise, stearic acid can be obtained from both animal and plant fats. The type of fat used in the production of stearic acid is beef fat, also known as tallow. Stearic acid is also obtained in lesser amounts from herring and sardine. Plant oils such as cotton, coconut, palm kernel, castor beans, rapeseed, soybeans, and sunflowers are also natural sources of stearic acid. Citric acid used in the reaction is plant-derived.

In the personal care industry, glyceryl stearate citric acid is added to the formulations primarily for its e mulsifying properties. Besides giving physical attributes to the formulation, this fatty acid ester is also perceived to aid in the protection of the skin barrier and acts as an emollient. It provides a soft and smooth appearance on the skin and helps with moisturization of the skin. ¹

FDA has conducted a safety assessment of the glyceryl esters that are used in the cosmetic industry as well as in other industries. Tests on toxicity, skin sensitivity, skin sensitization, carcinogenicity, tumor promotion, etc were investigated. Their detailed investigation has concluded that glyceryl stearate citrate is a safe ingredient to be used as long it is used under the recommended concentrations. ^2,3

References:

1. Pepe, R. C., J. A. Wenninger, N. McEwen, Jr., eds. 2002. International cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook, 9th ed., 675–677, 683.
2. Cosmetic allergy from stearic acid and glyceryl Contact Dermatitis, 01 Jul 1988, 19(1):77-78.
3. Amended Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Glyceryl Dilaurate, Glyceryl Diarachidate, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Glyceryl Dierucate, Glyceryl Dihydroxystearate, Glyceryl Diisopalmitate, Glyceryl Diisostearate, Glyceryl Dilinoleate, Glyceryl Dimyristate, Glyceryl Dioleate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate, Glyceryl Dipalmitate, Glyceryl Dipalmitoleate, Glyceryl Distearate, Glyceryl Palmitate Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate Lactate, and Glyceryl Stearate Succinate1. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl. 3):1–30,

Kahai / Cacay oil

Cacay (Caryodendron orinocense Karst.) is a Euphorbiaceae plant that grows along the Andes base adjacent to the Amazonian lowland. Cacao oil also known as Kahai Oil is extracted from the nuts of a Colombian “Cacay”, through a special process that retains all its regenerative and antioxidant properties. It is rich in vitamins, linoleic acid, oleic acid, and retinol. It re-energizes the skin providing radiance, firmness, elasticity, and hydration. It protects and repairs the skin, adding moisturization and reducing wrinkles by 45%.

Compared to Argon oil it contains 50% more Vitamin E making it an excellent source of natural antioxidants. Because of its high content of linoleic acid (85%), it acts as an anti-inflammatory agent thus making it safe to be used on sensitive skin. The high linoleic acid also prevents the excess production of melanin, the causing agent for dark spots. With up to 85% linoleic acid content, cacay oil is the alternative to conventional skin-brightening ingredients such as kojic acid, retinol, tretinoin (trans-retinoic acid), niacinamide, arbutin, and hydroquinone.

As mentioned features, cacay oil is also a natural source of retinol and has 3 times more retinol than Rosehip Oil. Unlike traditional retinol, cacay oil is not affected by UV light thus making it a safe retinol treatment to be used during the day, unlike conventional retinol treatments. One research study presented that cacay oil presents a high amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) (58.3%) with an emphasis on linoleic acid and a lower acidity value. All these factors are steering the cosmetic and Biotech industry to use cacay oil in their formulations as a natural substitute for retinol, vitamin E.

References:

1. Physicochemical characterization, fatty acid profile, antioxidant activity, and antibacterial potential of cacay oil, coconut oil, and cacay butter. Wendell Medeiros de Azevedo etal. PLOS ONE April 28, 2020.
2. Chemical Characterization and Antioxidant Activity of Amazonian (Ecuador)
   Caryodendron orinocense Karst. and Bactris gasipaes Kunth Seed Oils. Matteo Radice etal. Journal of Oleo Science, November 12, 2014.

Lespedeza capitata

Lespedeza capitata is also known as round bush clover and belongs to the Fabaceae family. It is native to eastern North America, including eastern Canada and the eastern half of the United States. The plant has many medicinal properties and was used as a treatment for rheumatoid, as an anecdote for poison. The leaves and the stems were routinely used to make tea. Several species of Lespedeza were studied with reference to their significance in human health in general, skin health, and the circadian cycle.¹

Circadian rhythm is the body’s natural sleep-wake cycle that plays an important role in health and well-being. A set of genes called circadian clock genes involved in this cycle are switched on and off, the implications of which have been known and proven to affect overall health including skin health. Each cell, the organ has its own circadian cycle and collectively forms a global rhythm. This global rhythm is regulated by the brain, but the skin, specifically each cell, possesses its own internal clock governing major biological responses following this 24-hour rhythm.2,Figure 1

Four genes are implicated in circadian rhythm: B-mal, Per, Cry, and Clock. But their expression can be altered by external factors. Stress including physical, mental, intense lifestyle, extended and unusual work hours, shift working hours, jet lag or even prolonged exposure to blue light via devices, etc cause disruption of circadian clock which leads to dysregulation of skin’s circadian rhythm.^3,4 A dysregulated circadian rhythm affects the skin’s well-being, which shows signs of fatigue. Genes that should be expressed in the morning (Per/Cry) are no longer well expressed, and the same happens to evening genes (Bmal-1/Clock): the rhythm is dysregulated. ^{Figure 2} This phenomenon weakens many biological functions of the skin resulting in tired and dull-looking skin. Factors affected by circadian variations are transepidermal water loss, keratinocyte proliferation, skin blood flow, and skin temperature, etc. Transepidermal water loss is higher in the nighttime, skin permeability and absorption are higher in the evening than in the morning. A good night skincare regimen with functional ingredients that can sync with the internal circadian clock will help in the repair and healing of the skin.^5,6

Figure 1: Different physiological activities in a 24 our circadian cycle.

Figure 2: Circadian cycle showing the expression of circadian genes and the physiological response of the body.

Figure 3: Ageing and Circadian rhythm. The left side of the picture depicts the changes happening in a normal sleep cycle pattern and the right side of the figure shows the changes that would happen when we do not sleep at the right time, when exposed to blue lights etc. ⁹

While 25 percent of skin aging can be attributed to genetics, 75 percent is influenced by epigenetics, or environmental and lifestyle factors like sleep. These factors disrupt the sleep-wake cycle leading to dull and damaged skin. Lespedeza extract aids to mitigate this effect and brings back the balance in the sleep-wake cycle. ⁷

Lespedeza extract has demonstrated its efficacy to resynchronize the rhythm of Bmal-1, Per, and Cry circadian genes on a unique model of synchronized skin exposed to blue light as a stress factor to deregulate its circadian rhythm. As a consequence, it also demonstrated its efficiency in regulating key biological functions such as aquaporin 3 and Nrf2 pathway, known to follow a circadian rhythm. Invitro experiments using Lespedeza extract have proven that blue light damages the skin and that Lespedeza extract is effective in countering the damage caused due to the blue light and other stress inducers which dysregulates circadian rhythm. The skin looked radiant with an improved complexion and enhanced biorhythms and antioxidant activity. ⁶ With the ability to aid in balancing the dysregulated circadian rhythm resulting due to stress inducers such as lack of recommended hours of sleep, lespedeza extract might facilitate the healing, repair, and rejuvenation of the skin in a normal process which otherwise would have got dysregulated as well. ^7,8

References

1. Biological activities of the legume crops Melilotus officinalis and Lespedeza capitata for skincare and pharmaceutical applications. Giulia et al. Industrial crops and products, Volume 96, February 2017, Pages 158-16.
2. Circadian Rhythm and the Skin: A Review of the Alexis B. Lyons etal. TJ Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2019;12(9):42–45.
3. Circadian rhythms in the skin and other elastic Michael J Sherrat etal. Matrix Biol, 2019 Nov;84:97-110.
4. Blue light disrupts the circadian rhythm and creates damage in skin K Dong etal. Int J Cosmet Scin 2019 Dec;41(6):558-562.
5. The circadian clock in skin: implications for adult stem cells, tissue regeneration, cancer, aging, and Maksim V. Plikus etal. J Biol Rhythms. 2015 June ; 30(3): 163–182.
6. Skin, Reactive Oxygen Species, and Circadian Clocks. Mary A. Ndiaye Antioxidants and Redox Signaling, Volume 20, Number 18, 2014.
7. Compositions comprising Lespedeza plant US 20200281845A1, Sep 10, 2020.
8. PER, a Circadian Clock Component, Mediates the Suppression of MMP-1 Expression in HaCaT Keratinocytes by Miji Yeom et al, Molecules 2018, 23, 745; frontiersin.org.

Methyl glucoside-6-phosphate

Methyl glucoside-6-phosphate (C7H13O9P2) is a structural analog to glucose-6- phosphate that plays an important role in cellular bioenergetics. Dietary glucose is converted to glucose phosphate that can diffuse into the cells to provide the energy needed for cellular metabolism. It is one of the important members of the Krebs cycle (glucose metabolism inside the cell or glycolysis) producing ATP molecules required for many biological reactions to occur in the body.¹

In the case of skin, cellular energy is needed to maintain the dermal architecture towards the synthesis of collagen, elastin, stimulation of fibroblasts, synthesis of ECM components, etc. With age, the fibroblasts become senescent resulting in lower levels of collagen, elastin, and ECM components due to decreased cellular energy levels. ¹ Methyl glucoside-6-phosphate provides readily available diffusible energy to the fibroblasts to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and ECM components. Lysine is an essential amino acid, which means that human cells cannot produce it, but it’s a necessary building block for collagen and elastin. It is involved in the synthesis and cross linking of collagen polypeptides. Proline is a non-essential amino acid, human cells can produce it, but fibroblasts spend a lot of it (about 10% of the collagen chain is proline). Copper ions are required for the Lysyl oxidase enzyme (copper is in the active domain or acting site of that enzyme) involved in the extracellular maturation (crosslinking of proteins) of collagen and elastin. ^2,3,4,5

Together with proline, lysine, and copper that is needed for the synthesis of collagen and elastin, methyl glucoside-6-phosphate has been proven clinically to stimulate fibroblasts towards the synthesis of these dermal structural proteins. An increase in collagen and elastin production by 6.9 and 190% in just 11 days of usage was observed. A d ecrease in the depth of the wrinkles was also seen along with improved skin hydration and a soft feel.⁶

References:

1. Formation of Connective Tissue Nutrition Reviews, Volume 31, Issue 1, January 1973, Pages 28–29.
2. Proline-dependent regulation of collagen Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, 2020,1911–1918.
3. Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. FEBS Letters, Volume 238, number 2, 343-346.
4. Cancer-Associated Fibroblasts Stimulated by Transforming Growth Factor,  Beta1 TGF-Beta Increase Invasion Rate of Tumor Cells: A Population Breast Cancer Res Treat (2008) 110:39–49. doi: 10.1007/s10549-007- 9684-7.
5. Transforming Growth Factor Type Beta: Rapid Induction of Fibrosis and angiogenesis in vivo and in stimulation of collagen in vitro. Proc Natl Acad Sci, 1986, June(84), pg4161.
6. SKINCAREPREPARATIONS, : US10,124,030B2 (45)DateofPatent: Nov.13,2018

Panthenol

DL-Panthenol is the provitamin of DL-Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), which plays a key role in the human intermediary metabolism. Vitamin B5 is a water-soluble vitamin ubiquitously found in plants and animal tissues with antioxidant properties. Vitamin B5 is a component of coenzyme A (CoA) and a part of the vitamin B2 complex.¹ Vitamin B5 is essential for various metabolic functions, including the metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins, and fatty acids. This vitamin is also involved in the synthesis of cholesterol, lipids, neurotransmitters, steroid hormones, and hemoglobin. Deficiency of Vitamin B5 can result in many disorders including dermatological disorders. ²

In the cosmetic industry, it acts as a humectant and an emollient and helps the skin to attract water, hold onto it and then seal it. Besides it’s usage in skin care products as a moisturizer, it is also used in hair and nail care products. Hair consists of a part of Panthenol, which allows the ingredient to penetrate deeper into its so-called cortex, causing hair to swell slightly and create more volume. It works in symbiosis with Keratin, a major component of our skin and nails. It has the ability to penetrate through the nail to provide moisture, soften and protect, which is ideal for dry, damaged and fragile .

Panthenol ( Provitamin B5) is converted by oxidation to vitamin B5. As a moisturising ingredient, Provitamin B5 stabilises the skin’s barrier function by reducing the amount of water lost through the skin.^2,3,4 Panthenol induces the synthesis of a precursor of fatty acids and sphingolipids, which are essential in forming the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum. This, in turn, improves skin texture and elasticity. Panthenol is suitable for all skin types but is particularly recommended for dry and matured skin types. Mature skin was perceived to be smoother and more supple after its application.

It also has anti-inflammatory properties and is involved in activating the proliferation of cells that are important for wound healing and restoring the function of the skin barrier.⁵

References

1. Pantothenic acid (PA) is needed for the synthesis of coenzyme A without which the Krebs cycle, beta-oxidation, or other metabolic pathways would not Nutrigenetics 2013.
2. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin Am J Clin Dermatol, 2002;3(6):427-33.
3. Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing after Medical and Cosmetic Pharmaceuticals 2020,13,138.
4. Effects of Vitamin B Complex and Vitamin C on Human Skin Cells: Is the Perceived Effect Measurable? Advances in Skin & Wound Care: May 2018 – Volume 31 – Issue 5 – p 225-233.
5. Efficacy of dexpanthenol in skin protection against irritation: a double-blind, placebo-controlled Contact Dermatitis, 2003 Aug;49(2):80-4.

Pomegranate, Fig, Mulberry, and Ginkgo

You are what you eat. Beautiful skin starts with nourishment from within. Why not feed your skin all the goodness of the fruits.

Pomegranate, fig, mulberry, and ginkgo have been traditionally been used in Asian countries to enhance beauty and are known to result in younger-looking, soft, even-toned glowing skin when applied onto the skin.

Pomegranate is a good source of vitamin C, B5 (pantothenic acid), potassium, and polyphenols. They are abundant in polyphenols, ellagitannins, and punicalagins. These polyphenols are responsible for antioxidant activity in pomegranate along with Vitamin C. Polyphenols can also help reverse signs of aging like sun spots, fine lines, and wrinkles.^1,4 Pomegranate is also known for its ability to improve skin tone resulting in a natural glow and offering protection against UV-induced damage to the skin.^2,3

Figs are rich in Vitamin C, calcium, magnesium, iron, potassium, and fiber and a good source of antioxidant vitamins A and K. The high Vitamin C content in figs confers the figs with the properties of skin rejuvenation, skin brightening and are effective in reducing sun spots, scarring.⁴ Several flavonoid compounds, anthocyanins, phytosterols have been characterized in fig fruits which help balance sebum production and maintain water balance resulting in a hydrated soft, and supple skin besides protecting and repairing the skin from damage caused due to UV light.⁴

Mulberry alba was effective for anti-oxidation and melanin inhibition suggesting this medicinal plant might be used as a good natural ingredient for cosmetics. Because of its ability to inhibit melanin, it is known for its ability to reduce age spots and treat hyperpigmentation. ⁶

Ginkgo biloba is also considered a vasodilator and has actions to improve blood circulation. Both the ginkgo nuts and the leaves have indicated very high anti-oxidant levels due to the high concentration of vitamins C and E. The nuts are a rich source of amino acids, fatty acids, sugars, and vitamins. Ginkgo biloba has been proven to improve the skin barrier function and elasticity of the skin.⁷

References:

1. Polyphenols: Skin Photoprotection and Inhibition of Mini Rev Med Chem. 2011 December 1; 11(14): 1200–1215.
2. Beneficial effects of dried pomegranate juice concentrated powder on ultraviolet B-induced skin photoaging in hairless mice. Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine 14: 1023-1036, 2017.
3. Pomegranate Juice and extract consumption increases the Resistance to UVB-induced erythema and changes the Skin Microbiome in Healthy Women: a Randomized controlled Nature-Scientific reports, 2019) 9:14528.
4. Phenolic-rich Pomegranate Peel Extract: In Vitro, Cellular, and In Vivo Activities for Skin Hyperpigmentation Plant Medicine, 2020, July 86 (11),749-759.
5. Traditional uses, phytochemistry, and pharmacology of Ficus carica: A review. Pharmaceutical Biology, Volume 52,2014-Issue11.
6. Phytochemistry, pharmacology, and clinical trials of Morus Chin J Nat Med,2016,Jan;14(1),17-30.
7. Synergistic effects of green tea and ginkgo biloba extracts on the improvement of skin barrier function and J Drug Dermatol,2014,Sep13 (9),1092-7.

Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester

Milk thistle (Silybum marianum L.) plant belongs to the family Asteraceae which native to the Mediterranean area. It also grows wild in uncultivated areas in the South of France, Central and Southern Europe, Western Asia and North Africa.It is known for its medicinal properties and is used to treat liver associated diseases including and not limited liver poisoning. The chemical constituents of milk thistle have a broad spectrum of antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, anti cancerous, anti inflammatory properties. The essential biochemical constituents include isomeric mixtures of flavonolignans, including taxofillin, silychristin, silydianin, silybin and isosilybin collectively known as silymarin. ^1,2,3 A research group has also concluded that silybin could have protection against UVA and UVB rays while another research group has reported that that milk thistle extract might have anti aging effect by conferring protection against UVA/UVB damage. ^4,5,6 Therapeutic action of milk thistle is due to this chemical complex – silymarin. ⁷

Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester is not the same as flavonolignans. It is a natural fatty acid ester extracted from Silybum Marianum (milk thistle oil). Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester contains over 50% linoleic acid (from the omega-6 family). And because linoleic acid is naturally present in our skin, applying Milk Thistle to the skin reinforces the skin’s innate ability to protect itself against physical and chemical stressors, dryness and moisture loss. Research done by a group has shown that Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester might have a protective effect against skin barrier due to the presence of omega 6 fatty acids in it. ^8,9,10 It was also reported to reduce the degradation of filaggrin, the molecule that is needed for making natural moisturizing factors in the skin. ^{11, 12}

Figure:1 Percentage change in skin moisture in volunteers treated with formulation containing milk thistle extract. ⁶ There is a gradual increase in the amount of moisture content with increase of the usage time.

Figure 2: Percentage change in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in volunteers treated with formulation containing milk thistle extract. ⁶ There is a gradual decrease in the amount of water lost from the skin with an increase in the usage of the formulation.

References:

1. Tunisian Milk Thistle: An Investigation of the Chemical Composition and the characterization of Its Cold-Pressed Seed Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec; 18(12): 2582.
2. Medicinal plants of Saudi Riyadh: King Saud University Press.2000.
3. Flavonolignans of Silybum marianum ” Chemistry of Natural Compounds, vol. 37, pp. 315-317.
4. UVA-photoprotective potential of silymarin and silybin. Archives of Dermatological Research (2018) 310:413–424.
5. Cosmeceuticals and Clin Dermatol. 2009 ; 27(5): 479–484.
6. Anti-aging potential of a cream containing milk thistle extract: Formulation and in vivo African Journal of Biotechnology Vol. 11(6), pp. 1509-1515, 19 January, 2012.
7. Milk Thistle ( Silybum Milk Thistle (SILYBUM MARIANUM) : A REVIEW. International Journal of Pharma Research and Development, Publication Ref No.: IJPRD/2011/PUB/ARTI/VOV-3/ISSUE-2/APRIL/001.
8. Omega-3 Versus Omega-6 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids in the Prevention and Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2020, 21, 741.
9. Randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled pilot study on the effects of topical blackcurrant emulsion enriched in essential fatty acids, ceramides and 18-beta glycyrrhetinic acid on clinical signs and skin barrier function in dogs with atopic Vet Dermatol 2017 Dec;28(6):577.
10. The role of sphingolipid metabolism in cutaneous permeability barrier Biochim Biophys Acta 2014 Mar;1841(3):441-52.
11. Lipid Metabolic Events Underlying the Formation of the Corneocyte Lipid Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2021;34:38–50.
12. Understanding the Role of Natural Moisturizing Factor in Skin Practical Dermatology, July 2012.

Squalane

(In Trouvaille product line, we use 100 % plant-derived squalane)

Squalane (C30H620) is a stable form of squalene (C30H60) that is formed by the process of esterification and hydrogenation process.

Squalene is a natural triterpene synthesized in the body and obtained from dietary sources. It is an important intermediate in the lipid metabolism of sterol and hopanoid biosynthesis in various types of living systems ranging from bacteria to humans. In mammals, squalene is one of the most important lipids of skin cells. It is synthesized in sebaceous glands where it accounts for 13% of total lipids. Its total concentration in the skin and the squalene to cholesterol ratio vary with the skin site. Secretion of squalene varies between the individuals and is usually in a range from 125 to 475 mg per day. With age, there is a decline in the squalene content thus aiding the age-associated changes in the skin. This can be addressed by the external supply of squalene.

Squalene is extracted rom various natural plant and animal sources. It is present in highest amounts in shark and hence most of the commercially available synthetic squalene is extracted from shark. For ethical reasons, the alternate plant sources such as sugar cane, rice barn, olive oil etc are gaining popularity for the synthesis of Squalene.

Squalene is unstable and easily gets oxidized making it ineffective. The unsaturated carbons of squalene bind hydrogen ions from water and releases 3 unbound oxygen molecules, forming the saturated form, squalane. Squalane is more stable than squalene and hence is being widely used in cosmetic and pharma industries.

C30H50 Squalene + 6H2O Water —> C30H62 + 3O2.

Squalane the stable derivative of squalene is also believed to naturally occur in small amounts in the lipid layers of skin, along with its precursor squalene. Though squalane is derived from squalene, they are different in their functions. Squalene has been proven to have a broad spectrum of function in the body ( antioxidant, any tumor) while not much work was done on squalane’s exclusive beneficial effect on the human body other than a few studies that involve using it as a carrier for the pharmaceutical formulation, its efficacy as a carrier, etc.

Squalane is an emollient and bioactive substance and has an exceptional capacity to penetrate and impart flexibility to the human skin. Its sensorial profile, biocompatibility with skin, robust composition, and moisturizing benefits have made it a favorite with cosmetic formulators. Because of the lipid content, it acts as a barrier to prevent moisture loss from the skin. The high amounts of omega fatty acids present in it make it a natural moisturizer. Due to its emollience property, it acts as a barrier and prevents moisture loss, aiding the process that restores skin’s suppleness and flexibility. It can also vehiculate and increase the absorption of other active substances used to formulate cosmetic products including creams, hair conditioners, lotions, lipsticks, sunscreens, bath oils, and foundations.

Table1: Key differences between Squalene and Squalane

References:

1. Catalytic Hydrogenation of Squalene to Squalane. Org. Process Res. Dev. 2014, 18, 1110−1115.
2. Solvent-Free Chemoselective Hydrogenation of Squalene to Squalane. ACS Omega 2017, 2, 3989−3996.
3. Thematic review series: Skin lipids. Sebaceous gland lipids: friend or foe? J. Lipid Res. 2008, 49, 271–281.
4. Observations on the squalene and cholesterol content and the possible functions of squalene in human sebum. Biochem. J. 1957, 66, 32–38.
5. Anatomical variation in the amount and composition of human skin surface lipids. J. Invest. Dermatol. 1970, 54, 240–247.
6. In vivo studies of sterol and squalene secretion by human skin. J. Lipid Res. 1974, 15, 563–573.
7. Lipophilic antioxidants in human sebum and aging. Free Radic. Res. 2002, 36, 471-477.
8. Squalene and its potential clinical uses. Altern. Med. Rev. 1999, 4, 29-36.
9. Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology. Molecules 2009, 14, 540−554.
10. Responding Phospholipid Membranes—Interplay between Hydration and Permeability. Biophysical Journal Volume 81 August 2001.
11. A possible role for squalene in the pathogenesis of acne. I. In vitro study of squalene oxidation. Br. J. Dermatol. 1986, 114, 535-542.
12. Biological Importance and Applications of Squalene and Squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, vol 65,2012, pg 223-233.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a precursor of vitamin C also known as Ascorbic acid (AA). Vitamin C by itself is a poor ingredient to be used in formulations because of its instability which compromises its properties and functions. It gives a yellow tint to the finished formulas as it gets degraded. Hence a stable form of vitamin C is required to be used in the formulations in order for it to function effectively in the body. Vitamin C exists in D and L forms. of ascorbic acid.

L-Ascorbic acid is the biologically active form of vitamin C. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is the active and stable form of L-Ascorbic acid. ^1,2,3

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipid-soluble L-Ascorbic acid precursor esterified with branched-chain fatty acid (2-hexyldecanoic acid. The lipid-soluble property of THDC facilitates its incorporation into cell membranes. THDC has improved stability and ability to penetrate to the deeper layers of the skin unlike Vitamin C. THDC is essentially a vitamin c precursor that can penetrate the dermis where it may then undergo intracellular enzymatic conversion to the biologically active form of vitamin c which is L- Ascorbic acid. ^3,4 It helps in the repair of tissue,

 the formation of collagen, and in the enzymatic production of certain neurotransmitters, acts as

 an antioxidant, acts as cofactors in many enzymatic reactions, known to decrease signs of

 photodamage, such as skin wrinkling and reduce hyperpigmentation. Recent evidence points

 also out that it has the potential to be used as a cancer treatment.^5,6,7

Research done on the antioxidant capabilities of THDC showed that it is degraded by singlet oxygen that is generated as part of metabolic reactions within the body and the photodamage caused to the skin. This can be mitigated by combining THDC with antioxidants that are effective against singlet oxygen.^3,8,9

Several reports have indicated that vitamin C levels are lower in aged or photodamaged skin. Whether this association reflects cause or effect is unknown. This effect can to some extent be mitigated by using topical treatments that have a stable form of vitamin C such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.¹⁰

References:

1. Ascorbic acid metabolism and functions: A comparison of plants and Free Radic Biol Med; 2018, July 122:116-129.
2. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients 2017, 9,
3. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) degrades dapidly under oxidative Stress but can be stabilized by Acetyl Zingerone to enhance collagen production and antioxidant effects. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2021, 22,
4. Ascorbic acid enhances the expression of type 1 and type 4 collagen and SVCT2 in cultured human skin Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 2013, 430, 579–584.
5. Gene expression profiling reveals new protective roles for vitamin C in human skin Free. Radic. Biol. Med. 2009, 46, 78–87.
6. Effects of Citrus Fruit Juices and Their Bioactive Components on Inflammation and A Narrative Review. Front. Immunol., 24 June 2021.
7. Ascorbic acid in cancer treatment: let the phoenix Cancer Cell. Author manuscript; available in PMC 2019 November 12.
8. Dose-response effects of acute ultraviolet irradiation on antioxidants and molecular markers of oxidation in murine epidermis and J. Investig. Dermatol. 1994, 102, 470–475.
9. Efficacy of Vitamin C Supplementation on Collagen Synthesis and Oxidative Stress After Musculoskeletal Injuries.The Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine. 6(10), 2325967118804544 DOI:1177/2325967118804544.
10. Collagen in the Extracellular Matrix of Cultured Scleroderma Skin Fibroblasts: Changes Related to Ascorbic Acid-Treatment. Matrix 9, 34–39.