Jojoba Esters

Jojoba esters are the wax esters extracted from the seed of the species Simmondsia chinensis. They constitute a majority of the composition of jojoba oil which is also commonly referred as jojoba ester or jojoba liquid wax.1

Jojoba oil is a complex mixture consisting of C40 and C42 carbon straight chain monoesters composed of C20 and C22 fatty alcohols and fatty acids. Jojoba oil is converted to jojoba esters through the process of interesterification.1,2,3Jojoba oil has a history of use in traditional medicine to treat various ailments, such as skin and scalp disorders, superficial wounds, sore throat, obesity, and cancer; for improvement of liver functions, enhancement of immunity, and promotion of hair growth. Studies on Jojoba oil also showed that it has antioxidant, anti-acne, antipsoriasis, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antipyretic, analgesic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperglycemia properties.4,5,6,7,8,9

While jojoba oil has unique and beneficial cosmetic properties, its utility has been broadened by using it as a base material for the creation of jojoba esters that are superior in function compared to jojoba oil. Hence all jojoba esters do not perform the same way and differ in their characteristics.10,11

Jojoba esters are unique compositions of a broad range of saturated, partially saturated, and unsaturated wax esters with each of these compositions having different physical, chemical, and functional characteristics. They are non-comedogenic, skin safe, stable and biodegradable making them the choice of ingredient in a broad range of cosmetic applications.10,11,12

In the cosmetic and personal care industry jojoba esters are known for their emollient properties. It is a sensorial ingredient leaving a no grease and soft feel when applied to the skin 4,5. It acts as a carrier of other active ingredients in the formulation 6. Functionally it is known to prevent transepidermal water loss from the skin by acting as an occlusive layer and protecting the skin barrier. 12,13,14,15 This character is due to its high molecular weight and low viscosity, and structural similarity with skin sebum, leading to a smoothing effect on dry skins and the inhibition of excess flaking of epidermal cells. Skin indentation tests showed that the oil enhanced skin elasticity and showed a keratoplastic effect. 4,5,12,

The jojoba esters used in Monaesi skincare products have been clinically proven to reduce wrinkles, improve barrier function, hydration, decrease the dryness and flakiness and reduce trans epidermal water loss thus leading to increased moisture retention.12,14,15

Figure 1: Reduced Transepidermal water loss in volunteers treated with jojoba esters. Jojoba esters containing formulation was applied and transepidermal water loss ( TEWL) was measured on day 7 and day 14. There is a considerable drop-in TEWL by day 14.12,14,15

Figure 2: Improvement in the texture of the hand treated wth jojoba esters.12,14,15

References:

  1. Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses, and Toxicity. Polymers 2021, 13, 1711.
  2. The Chemistry and Technology of Jojoba Oil; American Oil Chemists’ Society: Champaign, IL, USA, 1987; 272p.
  3. Interesterification involves a rearrangement or reshuffling of the fatty acids on the glycerol backbone of the triglyceride molecule. Science Direct. Encyclopedia of Food and Health 2016, pg 351- 356.
  4. Plants and the Skin; Blackwell Scientific Publications: Oxford, UK, 1993; 272p.
  5. Medicinal properties of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis). Israel Journal of Plant Sciences, 2021.
  6. Potential uses of jojoba oil and meal—A review. Ind. Crop. Prod. 1994, 3, 43–68.
  7. Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne—results of a prospective, observational pilot study.Forsch Komplementmed. 2012;19(2):75-9.
  8. Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. J Ethnopharmacol. 2011 Mar 24;134(2):443-9.
  9. Anti-inflammatory effects of jojoba liquid wax in experimental models. Pharmacol. Res. 2005, 51, 95–105.
  10. Jojoba Ester based emollient compositions. EP1047657B1.
  11. Jojoba Oil Wax Esters and Derived Fatty Acids and Alcohols: Gas Chromatographic Analyses. J American oil chemists society, vol 48, pg 259-264.
  12. Functionality with Jojoba-Derived Ingredients – Increased Skin Hydration and Consumer Preference with Floraesters. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase. December 2010. Poster.
  13. Skin Barrier Protection with Jojoba Esters. American Academy of Dermatology 71st Annual Meeting. March 2013. Poster.
  14. Evaluation of additive effects of hydrolyzed jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) esters and glycerol: a preliminary study. J Cosmet Dermatol 2008 Dec;7(4):268-74.
  15. The Role of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters as a Unique Botanical Technology for Long-Acting Moisturization. Poster presentation. American academy of dermatology. 64th conference.