Squalane

(In Trouvaille product line, we use 100 % plant-derived squalane)

Squalane (C30H620) is a stable form of squalene (C30H60) that is formed by the process of esterification and hydrogenation process.

Squalene is a natural triterpene synthesized in the body and obtained from dietary sources. It is an important intermediate in the lipid metabolism of sterol and hopanoid biosynthesis in various types of living systems ranging from bacteria to humans. In mammals, squalene is one of the most important lipids of skin cells. It is synthesized in sebaceous glands where it accounts for 13% of total lipids. Its total concentration in the skin and the squalene to cholesterol ratio vary with the skin site. Secretion of squalene varies between the individuals and is usually in a range from 125 to 475 mg per day. With age, there is a decline in the squalene content thus aiding the age-associated changes in the skin. This can be addressed by the external supply of squalene.

Squalene is extracted rom various natural plant and animal sources. It is present in highest amounts in shark and hence most of the commercially available synthetic squalene is extracted from shark. For ethical reasons, the alternate plant sources such as sugar cane, rice barn, olive oil etc are gaining popularity for the synthesis of Squalene.

Squalene is unstable and easily gets oxidized making it ineffective. The unsaturated carbons of squalene bind hydrogen ions from water and releases 3 unbound oxygen molecules, forming the saturated form, squalane. Squalane is more stable than squalene and hence is being widely used in cosmetic and pharma industries.

C30H50 Squalene + 6H2O Water —> C30H62 + 3O2.

Squalane the stable derivative of squalene is also believed to naturally occur in small amounts in the lipid layers of skin, along with its precursor squalene. Though squalane is derived from squalene, they are different in their functions. Squalene has been proven to have a broad spectrum of function in the body ( antioxidant, any tumor) while not much work was done on squalane’s exclusive beneficial effect on the human body other than a few studies that involve using it as a carrier for the pharmaceutical formulation, its efficacy as a carrier, etc.

Squalane is an emollient and bioactive substance and has an exceptional capacity to penetrate and impart flexibility to the human skin. Its sensorial profile, biocompatibility with skin, robust composition, and moisturizing benefits have made it a favorite with cosmetic formulators. Because of the lipid content, it acts as a barrier to prevent moisture loss from the skin. The high amounts of omega fatty acids present in it make it a natural moisturizer. Due to its emollience property, it acts as a barrier and prevents moisture loss, aiding the process that restores skin’s suppleness and flexibility. It can also vehiculate and increase the absorption of other active substances used to formulate cosmetic products including creams, hair conditioners, lotions, lipsticks, sunscreens, bath oils, and foundations.

Squalene Squalane
Made from vegetable oils such as olive and shark liver oil Is a hydrogenated form of squalene, meaning that any double bonds become saturated by hydrogen

atoms

Is less stable and doesn’t last as long in the formulation Is more stable and has a longer shelf life
Helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles Great for congested or oily skin types as it has a light texture and doesn’t clog the pores
Works as an antioxidant, preventing free radical damage Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

Table1: Key differences between Squalene and Squalane

References:

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