Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a precursor of vitamin C also known as Ascorbic acid (AA). Vitamin C by itself is a poor ingredient to be used in formulations because of its instability which compromises its properties and functions. It gives a yellow tint to the finished formulas as it gets degraded. Hence a stable form of vitamin C is required to be used in the formulations in order for it to function effectively in the body. Vitamin C exists in D and L forms. of ascorbic acid.

L-Ascorbic acid is the biologically active form of vitamin C. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is the active and stable form of L-Ascorbic acid. 1,2,3

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipid-soluble L-Ascorbic acid precursor esterified with branched-chain fatty acid (2-hexyldecanoic acid. The lipid-soluble property of THDC facilitates its incorporation into cell membranes. THDC has improved stability and ability to penetrate to the deeper layers of the skin unlike Vitamin C. THDC is essentially a vitamin c precursor that can penetrate the dermis where it may then undergo intracellular enzymatic conversion to the biologically active form of vitamin c which is L- Ascorbic acid. 3,4 It helps in the repair of tissue,

 the formation of collagen, and in the enzymatic production of certain neurotransmitters, acts as

 an antioxidant, acts as cofactors in many enzymatic reactions, known to decrease signs of

 photodamage, such as skin wrinkling and reduce hyperpigmentation. Recent evidence points

 also out that it has the potential to be used as a cancer treatment.5,6,7

Research done on the antioxidant capabilities of THDC showed that it is degraded by singlet oxygen that is generated as part of metabolic reactions within the body and the photodamage caused to the skin. This can be mitigated by combining THDC with antioxidants that are effective against singlet oxygen.3,8,9

Several reports have indicated that vitamin C levels are lower in aged or photodamaged skin. Whether this association reflects cause or effect is unknown. This effect can to some extent be mitigated by using topical treatments that have a stable form of vitamin C such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.10

References:

  1. Ascorbic acid metabolism and functions: A comparison of plants and Free Radic Biol Med; 2018, July 122:116-129.
  2. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients 2017, 9,
  3. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) degrades dapidly under oxidative Stress but can be stabilized by Acetyl Zingerone to enhance collagen production and antioxidant effects. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2021, 22,
  4. Ascorbic acid enhances the expression of type 1 and type 4 collagen and SVCT2 in cultured human skin Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 2013, 430, 579–584.
  5. Gene expression profiling reveals new protective roles for vitamin C in human skin Free. Radic. Biol. Med. 2009, 46, 78–87.
  6. Effects of Citrus Fruit Juices and Their Bioactive Components on Inflammation and A Narrative Review. Front. Immunol., 24 June 2021.
  7. Ascorbic acid in cancer treatment: let the phoenix Cancer Cell. Author manuscript; available in PMC 2019 November 12.
  8. Dose-response effects of acute ultraviolet irradiation on antioxidants and molecular markers of oxidation in murine epidermis and J. Investig. Dermatol. 1994, 102, 470–475.
  9. Efficacy of Vitamin C Supplementation on Collagen Synthesis and Oxidative Stress After Musculoskeletal Injuries.The Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine. 6(10), 2325967118804544 DOI:1177/2325967118804544.
  10. Collagen in the Extracellular Matrix of Cultured Scleroderma Skin Fibroblasts: Changes Related to Ascorbic Acid-Treatment. Matrix 9, 34–39.